Wednesday 5 March 2014

Madurai- my charming little temple town!

It isn't often that we get to go to our birthplaces, unless you live where you were born!

I recently went back to Madurai after a couple of decades. It was something of an experience- the nostalgia, grappling with history in terms of the place we come from. Situated within peninsular India, this little town is bustling with temples, the most famous of them being the Meenakshi Temple. Madurai is really steeped in the Southern Indian culture and remains hooked to its roots in idli- vada-dosai (rice pancakes and doughnuts) and kaapi (coffee).


This journey for me, was about coming full circle in more ways than one. My friends overseas in Australia and the United States often ask me about places to see in India, apart from the usual ones that Lonely Planet offers. Madurai- this is something to savour. So it was quite charming to see a lot of people from the west   in Madurai, visiting its temples, admiring the gopuram-styled architecture and taking away something that is quite unique to this part of India.


If you don't mind walking barefoot through throngs of people and trying to understand the significance of all the rituals then it can be a very gratifying experience. I had my Eat Pray Love moment with the temple Elephant at one of the temples here!

Madurai also shares a little chunk history with the Medici in Florence, who were patrons of art and architecture. The Pandya king of Madurai during the 17th century was similarly interested to build things of beauty for his people and invited architects from Italy to share their ideas.


The result is the Naicker hall, with its beautiful and ornate carvings supported by pillars. This place is open to visit every evening and hosts a light and sound show.

Madurai is home to many stories including that of the wedding of Meenakshi with Sundareshwar- who are incarnations of Parvati and Shiva.

It is also home to the popular lore of Ponni and Selvan - a story retold by Kalki and many of its temples have been featured as sets in many films based on these stories as well.

My trip to Madurai ended on many high notes, including the sighting of rare birds and driving through leopard territory on the way back to Bangalore. Hope you make time for some of these rare experiences in Madurai.

Also, if you've visited or you are planning to visit your birthplace after a long time, share what you find!



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